F1 Photography Guide: How to Capture High-Speed Formula 1 Cars Like a Pro
- Jcrews
- Jul 7
- 8 min read
Updated: Jul 7
So, you’ve scored tickets to a Formula 1 race this year—nice! Whether you’re heading to Silverstone, Monaco, Austin, or Vegas, one thing is for sure: you’ll want to capture the adrenaline, the speed, and the thrill of the world’s fastest sport through your camera lens.
But let’s be real—photographing F1 cars isn’t like snapping pictures of your cat. These machines fly by at over 200 mph. One blink and they're halfway down the straight. The good news? With the right gear, some technique, and a few pro tips, you can take F1 photos that actually look like they belong in a motorsport magazine.
In this guide, we’ll break it all down in a fun and easy way—from choosing the best camera to where to stand, how to set up your shots, and even where to throw in some sweet Amazon gear links.
Step 1: Choose the Right Camera Gear (It Matters… A Lot)
Let’s talk gear first. If your goal is to capture sharp images of F1 cars at full speed, you’ll need more than a smartphone or an entry-level DSLR.
The Camera Body
Look for a camera that’s built for action. You’ll want fast autofocus (AF), a good burst mode (aka “continuous shooting”), and solid low-light performance. That’s because during practice sessions or cloudy races, lighting can shift fast—and so can the cars.
Great camera choices for F1 photography:
Canon EOS R6 Mark 2 – Insane autofocus, 20fps burst, great in low light.
Sony A7 IV – Mirrorless magic with incredible eye and subject tracking.
Nikon Z6 II – Fast, reliable, and built for sports.
📸 Photo Idea: Take a shot of your gear laid out on a hotel bed before race day. Great for social media and blog intros!
Picking the Right Lens
F1 circuits are huge. You're often photographing from far away—behind fences or from spectator stands—so a good telephoto lens is a must. This is the lens that will let you zoom in and make that Red Bull car look like it’s right in front of you.
Solid options:
Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 – Great zoom, excellent price for the range.
Sony 200-600mm G OSS – Perfect for Sony shooters.
Canon RF 100-500mm – Lightweight and sharp.
Bring a monopod too—trust me. A tripod is bulky at events like this, and a monopod gives you just the right balance of support and mobility. I like the Manfrotto XPRO for events like these.
Step 2: Set Up Your Camera the Right Way (In-Depth Guide for F1 Photography)
Once you're at the circuit and your gear is ready, the next step is crucial: dialing in your camera settings for photographing the fastest sport on earth.
Unlike static photography, motorsport requires your camera to react in real time—to speed, light, angles, and unpredictable motion. The goal here is to find the perfect balance between freezing the action, capturing motion, and maximizing image quality.
Let’s walk through the four core settings—shutter speed, autofocus, ISO, and aperture—and how they work specifically for Formula 1.
Shutter Speed: The Key to Freezing or Blurring Motion
Shutter speed controls how long your camera’s sensor is exposed to light. In racing photography, it’s the most critical setting because it determines whether the car looks frozen in time or appears with stylish motion blur.
Use Fast Shutter Speeds to Freeze Action:
Start at: 1/2000s or faster
Best for: Capturing sharp images of cars during fast sections, pit stops, overtakes
Why: F1 cars move at insane speeds, so freezing them sharply requires very short exposures.
Example Settings for Frozen Action:
Mode: Shutter Priority (S or Tv)
Shutter speed: 1/2000s
ISO: Auto (capped at ISO 3200)
Aperture: f/4–f/5.6
Use Slow Shutter Speeds for Creative Panning:
Start around: 1/250s, work down to 1/100s as you improve
Best for: Showing motion blur in the background while the car stays in focus
Why: It adds a dynamic sense of speed and artistry to your shots
Pro Tip: With slower shutter speeds, your technique matters more than the gear. Keep your feet planted, rotate your torso smoothly, and track the car through the frame.
Autofocus (AF) Modes: Stay Locked On Your Subject
In F1 photography, cars rarely stay still—and neither should your focus. You’ll need a camera that supports continuous autofocus (aka “AI Servo” on Canon, or “AF-C” on Nikon/Sony/Fuji).
Recommended Focus Modes:
AF-C / AI Servo – Continuously adjusts focus as the car moves
Zone AF or Wide Area Tracking – Allows your camera to follow subjects across multiple AF points
Subject Tracking – If your camera supports AI subject recognition (like human + vehicle detection), enable it. Most newer mirrorless systems do.
Pro Tip: Assign autofocus to a back button (back-button focusing). This decouples focus from the shutter release, giving you more control.
Important Settings to Check:
Focus priority over release priority (ensure sharp focus before it shoots)
Disable face detection unless you're in the paddock—cars don’t have faces!
Set AF to continuous burst (10–20fps) for maximum capture opportunities
ISO: Your Light Sensitivity Lever
ISO controls how sensitive your camera’s sensor is to light. The lower the ISO, the cleaner the image. But if you’re shooting fast action or under changing light (like cloudy skies or night races), you’ll need to push it higher to maintain exposure.
Daylight Recommendations:
Sunny: ISO 100–400
Overcast: ISO 400–800
Dusk or indoor paddock shots: ISO 1600–3200 (some modern sensors can handle 6400+)
Use Auto ISO with a max cap: Many pros shoot with Auto ISO but cap it at ISO 3200 or 6400 depending on their camera’s low-light performance. This allows your camera to adapt to changing light while maintaining control over image noise.
ISO Trade-Off:
Low ISO = cleaner image but slower shutter unless it’s bright
High ISO = allows faster shutter but introduces noise
If your shot is too dark at 1/2000s and f/4, bump ISO before sacrificing shutter speed.
Aperture: Control Your Depth of Field
Aperture determines how much light enters the camera and how much of the scene is in focus. For F1, your aperture affects how sharp the car is against the background, and how well you can isolate it.
Aperture Guidelines for F1:
f/2.8–f/4: Use if you want maximum background blur and separation (especially useful at the pit lane or through fences)
f/5.6–f/8: Offers more depth of field, better for when you want more of the car in focus (like when shooting at an angle or side profile)
⚠️ Watch for subject movement: A wider aperture (like f/2.8) has a razor-thin focus plane—missing your target by inches can make the image unusable.
Pro Tips:
Set your aperture wide (f/4) for panning shots to maximize background blur
Go a bit narrower (f/5.6–f/8) when shooting head-on, so the full car stays sharp
Example Setting Presets (for Quick Access)
You can pre-program your camera’s custom modes (C1, C2, etc.) for different shooting styles.
Custom Mode 1: Freeze Action
Shutter Priority (S/Tv)
1/2000s
Auto ISO (max 3200)
f/4–f/5.6
Continuous AF + subject tracking
Custom Mode 2: Motion Blur / Panning
Manual Mode (M)
1/160s
f/4
Auto ISO (max 1600)
Continuous burst, IS on (if available)
💡 Bonus: Set a quick custom button for toggling IS (image stabilization) if your lens supports it. Use it for panning; turn it off for high shutter action.
Summary: Camera Settings Checklist for F1 Photography
Setting | Fast Action (Freeze) | Creative Blur (Panning) |
Shutter Speed | 1/2000s or faster | 1/250s to 1/100s |
Aperture | f/4–f/5.6 | f/4 |
ISO | Auto ISO (100–3200) | Auto ISO (100–1600) |
Autofocus Mode | AF-C / AI Servo | AF-C / Zone Tracking |
Shooting Mode | Shutter Priority / Manual | Manual |
Drive Mode | High-speed burst (10–20fps) | High-speed burst |
Stabilization | Off | On (horizontal only if lens allows) |
Step 3: Where You Stand Makes a Huge Difference
You could have the best camera in the world, but if you’re standing in a boring spot, your shots will fall flat. So where should you go?
Corner Exits
These are GOLD. Cars are accelerating out of a turn, which gives you that satisfying lean and tire smoke as they punch the throttle. It's also easier to pan here because cars are a bit slower than on straights.
Start/Finish Line
This is where the drama happens—starts, finishes, celebrations, and sometimes, heart-breaking failures. Just make sure you’re early to get a decent view.
Pit Lane (If You Can Get Access)
If you're lucky enough to have a media pass or special access, the pit lane offers some amazing behind-the-scenes moments: frantic tire changes, focused engineers, and drivers getting ready to roll.
📸 Photo Idea: Capture candid moments between sessions—drivers talking, mechanics prepping the cars. These tell the full F1 story.
Step 4: Learn the Art of Panning
Ah, panning—the holy grail of F1 photography. This is where the car is in focus but the background streaks with motion blur, showing the real sense of speed.
Here’s how to master it:
Use a slower shutter speed—start with 1/250s and go slower as you gain confidence.
Stand side-on to the track, not head-on. You want the car moving across your frame.
Follow the car smoothly with your body, not just your wrists. Think: rotate from the waist.
Shoot in burst mode—spray and pray, but with purpose. You’ll increase your chances of getting one or two perfect frames.
Be prepared: your keeper rate might be low at first, but when you nail a pan, it’s pure magic.
Step 5: Edit Like a Pro (But Not Too Much)
Even the best photos benefit from a little post-processing. You don’t have to be a Photoshop wizard—just some basic adjustments go a long way.
Here’s a quick workflow:
Crop for drama: Focus in on the car or the action. Don’t be afraid to cut out distractions.
Adjust exposure and contrast: Make those colors pop, especially the team liveries.
Sharpen the car: A bit of clarity and sharpening helps make the subject stand out.
Leave the blur alone: If you’ve panned properly, the background should already look cool and dynamic.
Tools like Lightroom, Capture One, or even the free Snapseed app can work wonders.
📸 Photo Idea: Do a “before and after” comparison to show your editing style.
Bonus: What to Pack for Race Day
You don’t want to be stuck mid-session with dead batteries or no storage. Here’s your essential F1 photo checklist:
Spare batteries (at least 2–3)
Extra memory cards – I recommend SanDisk Extreme Pro
Lens cleaning kit – dust and rain happen! Try Altura Photo Kit
Monopod – for stability during long sessions
Earplugs – because F1 engines = loud
Hat, sunscreen, and a refillable water bottle
Quick Amazon Gear Links
You can add these into your blog with affiliate links to boost conversions:
Item | Description | Link |
Canon EOS R6 Mark 2 | Best all-around for action | |
Sigma 150-600mm Lens | Long zoom range, great price | |
Manfrotto XPRO Monopod | Lightweight and sturdy | |
SanDisk Extreme Pro 128GB | Fast write speed | |
Altura Lens Cleaning Kit | Must-have for race day |
🏁 Final Thoughts: Capture the Speed, Keep the Fun
Photographing F1 isn’t just about getting technically perfect shots—it’s about capturing the raw energy of motorsport. Don’t stress if you miss a few. Enjoy the atmosphere, experiment with your shots, and most importantly, have fun doing it.
So pack your gear, charge your batteries, and get ready to shoot like a pro. Who knows? Maybe the next viral F1 photo on Instagram will be yours.
📸 Got a great F1 shot? Tag us or drop a link in the comments. We’d love to see what you captured.
Heads up, speedster! This page zooms with affiliate links—if you click and buy, I might earn a little pit stop bonus (at zero extra cost to you). Thanks for fueling the fun here!
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